An apple near 20 years in the making

One of the first things planted on arriving at Pundles were three apple trees. From the 2,000 plus varieties of Malus X domestica, the domestic apple, the choice had to be driven by the need for a hardy variety as wind resistant as possible. Suntan is a modern 1950s Cox’s Orange cross and a very hardy, frost resistant variety, or so the catalogue said when we ordered it and, to be fair, it proved to be an accurate statement. It’s also a triploid which means it needs two apple pollinators to deliver the goods so it stands alongside an Ashmead's Kernel and Howgate Wonder, the latter a cooker.

The Ashmead's Kernel is a classic old 18^th century variety raised, not surprisingly, by Dr Ashmead in Gloucester. Reputedly a poor cropper whose dull brown colour make it a commercial non-starter, but it possesses a strong sweet-sharp flavour and is very aromatic. Another couple of months to wait for this yet, assuming it can cope with the autumn winds and the fruit hangs on.

The Guardian’s new food writer, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, launched his first feature extolling the virtues of the apple:

My favourite is Ashmead's Kernel - the bite is a nutty snap, exploding with champagne-sherbet juice infused with a lingering scent of orange blossom. Stick me in Pseuds Corner if you like, but try one and you'll see I'm right.

Hugh’s suggestions for Spiced Baked Dessert Apples, Parsnip and Apple Cakes can be found by clicking here.

Over the years a modest amount of fruit has set, but much of it withered in the face of late summer and early autumn chills and wind. Invariably all we got was a few apples for cooking not really up for eating. Throughout this time surrounding shelter has grown up and with the great summer we’ve just had, doubtless the product of global warming, we have the first decent crop of dessert apples since planting in 1989. Just now, true to form, Suntan is about ready and should store for use into next year.

This year has produced a bumper crop, especially Suntan. Yes, we should have thinned out the crop early in the summer as now we are faced with an overburdened tree likely to take the whole of next year to recover. Apple infanticide requires a cool and calculating mind so rather than large fruits we shall simply have to enjoy lots of smaller hard, crisp, sweet and juicy fruits to capture those aromas lost soon after picking. Not such a great hardship.